Milan / Ratanà: modern trattoria in the shadow of the skyscrapers
In Isola neighborhood, almost at the base of the 'vertical wood', a group of residential skyscrapers combining the urban design with nature, Ratanà opened its doors in 2009, in the ground floor of a liberty building that used to host a railway warehouse and later an art laboratory.
Ratanà is a representative of a new 'generation' of restaurants that i call 'modern trattorias': restaurants that offer the honesty and genuineness of traditional trattorias, in a smart casual environment with the plus of a special twist to recipes and service.
Apart from the beautiful location and the look and feel of a French bistro, with the reduced walking space and the small tables close to each other - that allows neighboring small talks and recommendations on the spot -, the menu is truthful to a local cuisine that uses seasonal and protected ingredients paired with a fine and researched wine selection.
Guests have the opportunity to taste generous portions - sometimes indulging in salt - of risotto alla milanese, polenta served with fresh mushrooms or mondeghili (milanese meatballs with sausage and mortadella liver) in tasting menus or à la carte.
My personal favorites:
- Pasta with beans (even if it should be called beans with pasta), two different types of beans (borlotti and toscanelli) served with dehydrated pasta coated with smoked paprika to add crunchiness and natural flavor
- the dessert, persimmons and chestnuts on a wonderful portion of freshly made whipped cream, persimmon sorbet and leaves of fresh oregan. Delicious combination of autumn ingredients, with a good balance of textures and not overly sweet. Excellent.