Berlin | Dottir: A temporary window on the Nordic sea
Dottir is yellow: yellow are the lights, yellow is the marble on top of the bar; on the yellow tone (almost cream) are the walls of the ancient building hosting the restaurant and yellow is the color of the melted burnt butter served as a dip for the bread that opens the dinner.
Nordic is the cuisine, in the simplicity of its ingredient, in the balance of its tastes, in its seafood smell filling the air...
And so it happened that a marinated cod was chosen as first character of a culinary story that took place last week - the 4 courses menu changes every week - in a German house with windows facing the "Nordic sea".
A light dish, whose only fatty sin was a green herbs mayo: celery and dill - the main character of the four part of our story - among the main ingredients.
The rest: onions, watercress, sunflower seed...
The second dish reflects a team spirit of ingredients: the croquant white asparagus finds its counterbalance in the softness of the poached egg, served with a lobster-based sauce.
To glue everything together, a vinegar of peas and bacon, lightly citric, and an unexpected glass of Sancerre rosé.
By the time of the third dish, the smell of seafood started becoming slowly and lightly more intense (the privilege of sitting in front of the kitchen).
Not too long later, the salmon came to pay a visit to my table.
It waited quite a long time behind the scenes, 'slowly cooking' in its sousvide... and the stage would have been completely its own, if it wasn't for the delicious secret deal signed between the caviar and the buttermilk and the eye-catching picked radish, tempting you as sensual lips marked with a red lipstick...
The fourth dish was the highlight of the night.
I know chefs prefer to be cheered for their main dishes, but the dessert was extraordinary.
I'm not a huge dessert fan, but this dish combines savory ingredients into a sweet symphony: skyr, a milk based Icelandic cream, camomile and dill.
Camomile flowers are trapped in a very light 'biscuit', dill in small meringues, while a cold camomile tea is pored in the plate and melts with drops of a 'dill syrup'.
An excellent dish and a great wine pairing - with a French Jurancon.