Belgrade / Pekara Ceda Burek: burek as espresso
Belgrade strolls can become quite an interesting adventure. They can easily turn into an exploration of some of the most uncommon architectural establishments, old and abounded private houses - beautiful in its appeal yet so mysterious to tell decades long tales.
Belgrade is also a place of many improvised barracks, neighborhoods where a needle couldn’t go thorough from numerous cafes squeezed one next to each other. If you have a good host or a thorough preparation, Belgrade can as well become a true gourmet quest. As everything else in this city, nothing will be too fine, most of it will be very spontaneous and contrived but will carry a tremendously authentic spirit in every bit.
Whenever you decide to take the opposite direction from the pedestrian zone in the city center of (old) Belgrade, you will find yourself marching towards a neighborhood that holds no renommé in the eyes of tourists, yet is a true mecca for the locals. From the highest building in Belgrade called Beogradjanka (or lady Belgradian in translation) may the long street full of outdoor bars carry you away but hold to your guns for just a moment longer.
Reach Mutapova street and welcome the best burek in town. Best burek similar to best rakija is something very personal for Serbs and each will praise its own to be The one. The small pastry artisan shop that is named after its founder that hardly looks like fitting any people as it barely holds trays and trays of burek that are coming out straight from the oven.
However, as the tradition says, burek is eaten while standing (roughly speaking, it is like having an espresso in Italy). Thus, with a bit of attitude to squeeze yourself next to a fellow burek lover, or simply wait for the counter to be free, experiencing a good, old, cheese or meat pie is worth every bite!
After making a choice of the filling, ask for a yogurt or too (it is liquid in consistency and comes in plastic cups), get ready for a no-plate, fork-only breakfast experience and don’t be ashamed of any stain you might leave on the way.
Such a heavy duty breaky might leave you slightly guilty but will for sure satisfy you for hours. Since you are in the neighbourhood, use the chance to visit the green market called Kaleniceva pijaca and just wonder around some of the most colourful stands. As per the common tradition, more or less everything can be tried on the spot (especially cheese and meat cuts) so do not hesitate to accept the free offering.
Being not far from the biggest temple in the Balkans called St Sava, make a few turns and visit this impressive orthodox sanctuary. It is still under construction which makes the visit even more charming.