Luxembourg / Michelin Guide 2019: a faint starry sky with a few happy exceptions
The question I often receive is: “Aren’t you happy with the quality of restaurants in Luxembourg? There are many good and starred restaurants for such a small country.”
No, I am not really happy my friends, but do not take me wrong. I like poached eggs, foie gras, duck, cod and lobster..
I just do not think it is enough.
I would like to see even more fermentation and chefs indulging in vinegar and aromatic herbs. I would like to see more producers and more emphasis on local products (not just seasonal ones).
I would like to see more commingling with tastes and flavors brought back from travels around the world or just even instagram-inspired. I would like to feel more excited to eat out. I would like new openings to bring a twist, a revolution of tastes, a personalization of the plating. White tablecloths, service and good dishes are well deserved one Michelin star in this ‘part of the world’, so influenced by the French canons of the red guide, more traditional and less rock&roll.
But a food passionate, a traveler, a curious palate needs more.
I acknowledge the fact that innovation is an expensive road and that, apart from talent, ambitious and curiosity, huge investments are required - and these become even a bigger barrier in a country where rent and raw materials are already bloody expensive. But this year we have a happy exception coming out of the Michelin guide 2019, presented at the Horeca Expo in Ghent.
Cyril Molard, chef of Ma Langue Sourit, trusted his talent enough (to the opinion of the person writing, he is probably the most creative chef of the Grand Duchy) to take the investment path and renovate the restaurant last November. The efforts were noticed by the guide that, after almost 10 years from the first star, decided to award him with the second one!
Encouraging news for the Grand Duchy, together with the award of the first star for the Les Jardins d'Anaïs (awarded only 5 months after the opening, mostly thanks to cursus honorum of the chef), considering that the country lost already 3 stars this year, even before the opening of the ceremony, with the closing of the Patin D'Or and the decision of Favaro and La Gaichel to 'change the direction' of their restaurant. Apart from that, no particular surprises for Luxembourg with all the other restaurants confirmed, including the 2 stars to the Italian Ilario Mosconi. It takes certainly more to move the needle of the restaurant scene of Luxembourg, but we hope the new star in the sky of Ma Langue Sourit will shed some lights, burn the flame of the ambition and offer international travelers a safe shelter.
FULL LIST - LUXEMBOURG
Ma Langue Sourit - NEW
Le Jardin d'Anais - NEW
Toit pour toi